Mission Style Magazine Stand Plans
For the magazine stand shown here with there will be needed the following pieces:
- 1 top, 7/8 in. by 15-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in.
- 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 11-1/2 in. by 12-1/2 in.
- 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 12-1/2 in. by 14-3/4 in.
- 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 13-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in.
- 2 sides, 7/8 in. by 14-1/2 in. by 33-1/2 in.
- 1 brace, 7/8 in. by 3-1/4 in. by 17 in.
- 1 brace, 7/8 in. by 2-1/2 in. by 11-1/2 in.
- 6 braces, 7/8 in. by 2 in. by 2 in.
Order these pieces mill-planed on two surfaces to the thickness specified above and also sandpapered. Quarter-sawed white oak makes the best appearance of all the woods that are comparatively easy to obtain. Plain sawed red or white oak will look well but are more liable to warp than the quarter-sawed. This is quite an element in pieces as wide as these.Begin work on the sides first. Plane a joint edge on each and from this work the two ends. The ends will be square to the joint edge but beveled to the working face. A bevel square will be needed for testing these beveled ends.To set the bevel make a drawing, full size or nearly so, of the front view and place the bevel on the drawing, adjusting its sides to the angle wanted. Work from a center line in laying off the drawing.Having planed the ends, lay off the sides. This is done by measuring from the joint edge along the bottom 14 in., from the joint edge along the top 1-1/2 in. and from this 11 in. Connect the points by means of a pencil and straightedge.Before cutting off the joint edges of the pieces measure off and square lines across to indicate the locations of the shelves. Put both pieces together and mark across both joint edges at once to insure getting both laid off alike.The design at the bottom can be varied to suit the fancy of the worker. For such a design as is shown, draw on paper, full size, half of it; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by cutting along the line just drawn. Trace around this pattern on the wood, and saw out with compass or turning saw.The shelves may now be made. The bevel of the ends of the shelves will be the same as for the ends of the side pieces. The lengths may be obtained by measuring the drawing. Remember that length is always measured along the grain and that the end grain of the shelves must extend from side to side in this stand. The widths may be obtained by measuring the width of the sides at the points marked out on them for the location of the shelf ends. It is best not to have the shelves the full width of the sides, since the edges of the shelves are to be faced with leather. Make each shelf 1/2 in. less than the width of the side, at the place that the shelf is to be fastened.The top will be squared up in the usual manner, 15 in. wide by 16 in. long.These parts may now be put together. They may be fastened in any one of a variety of ways. Round-head blued screws may be placed at regular intervals through the sides. Finishing nails may be used and the heads set and covered with putty stained to match the wood. Finish nails may be placed at regular intervals and fancy headed nails used to cover the heads.The braces should be formed and fitted but not fastened until the finish has been applied. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all parts not already so treated. Probably no other finish appeals to so many people as golden oak. There is no fixed standard of color for golden oak. Different manufacturers have set standards in their part of the country, but
the prevailing idea of golden oak is usually that of a rich reddish brown.Proceed as follows: Egg shell gloss: 1.—One coat of golden oak water stain, diluted with water if a light golden is desired. 2.—Allow time to dry, then sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper. This is to smooth the grain and to bring up the high lights by removing the stain from the wood. Use No. 00 sandpaper and hold it on the finger tips. 3.—Apply a second coat of the stain diluted about one-half with water. This will throw the grain into still higher relief and thus produce a still greater contrast. Apply this coat of stain very sparingly, using a rag. Should this stain raise the grain, again rub lightly with fine worn sandpaper, just enough to smooth. 4.—When this has dried, put on a light coat of thin shellac. Shellac precedes filling that it may prevent the high lights—the solid parts of the wood—from being discolored by the stain in the filler, and thus causing a muddy effect. The shellac being thin does not interfere with the filler's entering the pores of the open grain. 5.—Sand lightly with fine sandpaper. 6.—Fill with paste filler colored to match the stain. 7.—Cover this with a coat of orange shellac. This coat of shellac might be omitted, but another coat of varnish must be added. 8.—Sandpaper lightly. 9.—Apply two or three coats of varnish. 10.—Rub the first coats with hair cloth or curled hair and then with pulverized pumice stone, crude oil or linseed oil. Affix the braces just after filling, using brads and puttying the holes with putty colored to match the filler. The shelves may be faced with thin leather harmonizing with the oak, ornamental headed tacks being used to fasten it in place.
These are free old vintage plans that were scanned or taken from old magazines for you to use and not to be confused with plans I sell on this site that I have drawn myself a short while back.
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